Free fatty acids C11–C24

Lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acid

Common esters

Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, decyl oleate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate

Problematic plant oils

Coconut, olive, shea butter, argan, marula, avocado

Polysorbates

Polysorbate 20, 40, 60, 80

Fermented extracts

Galactomyces, saccharomyces ferment filtrate

What's safe

Mineral oil, petrolatum, squalane, MCT oil, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, allantoin, panthenol, urea, sulfur-based antifungals, and most silicones (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) are generally Malassezia-safe and won't be flagged.

How do I know if I have fungal acne?

Fungal acne (technically Malassezia folliculitis) presents as small, uniform, itchy bumps usually on the chest, shoulders, and forehead — and it doesn't respond to traditional acne treatments. A dermatologist can confirm with a skin scrape.

Why are coconut oil and olive oil flagged?

They're rich in lauric, myristic, oleic, and linoleic acid — all in the C11–C24 range that Malassezia metabolises.

Is squalane the same as squalene?

No. Squalane (saturated, stable, fungal-acne safe) is the hydrogenated form of squalene (unsaturated, can oxidise). Make sure your label says "squalane" with an A.