What is Licorice Root Extract?
Licorice root extract — known in India as mulethi or yashtimadhu — comes from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant that has been used in Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine, and Western herbal medicine for over 2000 years. In skincare, it delivers two distinct active compounds: glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin production (brightening), and glycyrrhizin (a.k.a. glycyrrhizic acid), which is a potent anti-inflammatory agent.
That combination — gentle brightening plus inflammation reduction — makes licorice extract one of the most useful botanical ingredients for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, sensitive skin with dark spots, and rosacea or redness-prone skin. Unlike stronger brighteners, licorice extract rarely irritates and is often combined with niacinamide or centella asiatica in calming, brightening formulas.
Why is Licorice Extract so well tolerated?
Licorice root extract has thousands of years of traditional use and a solid modern safety profile at topical concentrations. Patch test data show very few cases of contact dermatitis. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review rates it safe at cosmetic concentrations (typically 0.1–2% standardized extract).
A few things to know:
- Oral licorice has cautions — long-term oral licorice can raise blood pressure and lower potassium. These effects do not apply to topical cosmetic use.
- Glabridin content varies — cheap licorice extracts may contain very little of the active glabridin. Look for "standardized to X% glabridin" on premium formulas.
- Works slowly — like most gentle brighteners, licorice extract takes 8–12 weeks of consistent use for visible results.
- Pregnancy-safe topically — unlike oral licorice (which is avoided in pregnancy), topical licorice extract is considered safe.
In Indian products 🇮🇳
Licorice root extract has deep roots in Indian skincare, both traditional and modern. Mulethi powder has been used in Indian home remedies and face packs for centuries, often mixed with honey, yogurt, or milk for brightening and calming effects. Classic Ayurvedic formulations like kumkumadi tailam and various Ayurvedic ubtans include licorice as a core brightening ingredient.
Modern Indian brands have embraced it widely: Kama Ayurveda, Forest Essentials, Just Herbs, Biotique, Lotus Herbals, Himalaya, Plum, Dot & Key, The Derma Co, Minimalist, Re'equil, and Mamaearth all use licorice extract in brightening, anti-pigmentation, and sensitive-skin ranges. Products range from pure mulethi powder (₹100) to premium standardized extracts (₹1500+).
Indian-context use cases:
- Melasma and post-acne marks — works gently on both, with no PIH risk.
- Sensitive skin with uneven tone — rare combination of brightening and anti-inflammatory.
- Ayurvedic face packs — mulethi powder mixed with rose water or milk is a classic DIY remedy.
- Rosacea and redness-prone skin — glycyrrhizin's anti-inflammatory action helps.
- Pregnancy brightening — topical licorice is pregnancy-safe.
- Layering with vitamin C and niacinamide — a synergistic brightening stack with low irritation.
- Children and teen skincare — licorice is one of the few "active" ingredients gentle enough for younger skin.
For traditional users, mulethi powder is sold at every Indian grocery store for under ₹100, though it's less potent and consistent than standardized cosmetic extracts.
How to use Licorice Extract well
- Look for standardized extracts — Premium formulations specify glabridin content.
- Apply morning and night — Licorice is stable and not photosensitizing.
- Combine with niacinamide and vitamin C — Synergistic brightening.
- Use consistently for 8–12 weeks — Results are gradual.
- Try traditional mulethi face packs — Mulethi powder + milk or honey is a budget Ayurvedic remedy.
Safer alternatives
- For stronger brightening: Alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid, or kojic acid give faster results.
- For anti-inflammatory action without brightening: Centella asiatica and madecassoside are alternatives.
- For gentler Ayurvedic options: Sandalwood and turmeric are traditional alternatives.
- For very sensitive skin: Allantoin and panthenol are even gentler calming options.