Oak Moss Absolute
The earthy base note of classic chypre perfumes — and one of the strongest fragrance sensitisers known, now EU-restricted
INCIEvernia Prunastri Extract
- Category
- Fragrance
- Risk level
- high
- What it is
- A natural extract of the lichen Evernia prunastri — the earthy/mossy base of classic chypre and fougère perfumes
- The real allergens
- Atranol and chloroatranol — sensitise at ~1–10 ppm, among the most potent fragrance allergens known
- EU restriction
- Reg (EU) 2017/1410 caps atranol + chloroatranol at very low levels (~100 ppm), so EU products use "low-atranol" oakmoss
- Cross-reaction
- Tree moss (Evernia furfuracea) — similar atranol/chloroatranol content
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Commonly found in
Possible reactions
- Severe allergic contact dermatitis
- Airborne contact dermatitis from perfume
- Persistent facial and neck dermatitis
- Systemic contact dermatitis in highly sensitised people
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What is oak moss absolute?
Oak moss absolute (INCI: Evernia Prunastri Extract) is a natural perfume material extracted from the lichen Evernia prunastri, which grows on oak and other hardwoods. It gives a distinctive earthy, forest-floor, mossy scent that's been the signature base of classic chypre and fougère perfumes for over a century — a note that's notoriously hard to replicate synthetically.
It's also one of the most potent fragrance sensitisers ever identified, which is why it's both a Fragrance Mix I component and an EU-restricted material.
Why it causes reactions — atranol and chloroatranol
Oak moss's allergenicity comes down to two phenolic compounds it naturally contains: atranol and chloroatranol. These sensitise at extraordinarily low levels — roughly 1–10 parts per million — far below most fragrance allergens. That potency explains why even a trace of oak moss in a complex perfume can trigger reactions, and why sensitised people often have stubborn, persistent dermatitis kept alive by trace exposures from perfume, aftershave, and scented laundry.
The EU's response was to cap the culprits: Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 limits atranol and chloroatranol to very low levels (around 100 ppm), so EU-compliant products use "low-atranol" oakmoss. Outside the EU — and in older perfumes or natural attars — higher levels may remain. Tree moss (Evernia furfuracea) cross-reacts, since it carries similar atranol/chloroatranol content.
How to spot and avoid it
- Read labels for Evernia Prunastri Extract (and Evernia Furfuracea — tree moss).
- Be wary of classic chypre/fougère perfumes and aftershaves, and natural attars/ittars.
- Prefer EU-reformulated (low-atranol) fragrances if you must wear scent.
- Go fragrance-free for the most complete avoidance — and remember trace environmental exposure can maintain a flare.
The bottom line
Oak moss absolute is the beloved, hard-to-replace earthy note of classic perfumery and, simultaneously, a top-tier allergen because of its atranol/chloroatranol content. The EU caps those allergens to very low levels; if you're sensitised, avoid oak moss and tree moss, lean on low-atranol EU products or fragrance-free, and expect trace exposures to matter.
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References & further reading
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (atranol/chloroatranol limits) EUR-Lex
- Oak moss (atranol/chloroatranol) contact allergy — review PubMed / Contact Dermatitis